Friday, January 4, 2013

Jerusalem: There are Rules!

What (almost) no one tells westerners before they go to the Middle East is that there are rules. There are regulations. There are ways of being that differ from Western Civilization. No one says much about them because they are confusing. And some of them are always changing.
Here are the rules I've gleaned from my travels in the Middle East:

1. The call to prayer happens five times a day, starting at 4:30 AM, ending at Sunset. Get used to it. If you're a light sleeper, take earplugs.

2. You will not find pork or pork products in the Middle East. Consumption of pork goes against both Muslim and Jewish law. Unless you want to be glared at, don't ask for a bar-be-que sandwich for lunch. Don't ask for sausage/bacon for breakfast.

3. In predominantly Muslim areas you will most likely not find alcoholic products.

4. If you're a woman, carry a headscarf with you. Don't even bother packing sleeveless shirts or shorts that don't reach your knees. Be modest, or be not welcomed into churches and holy sites AND be treated like a hooker by the men on the streets.
 Gentlemen: Wear pants. Full-length. If you wear shorts, you may find yourself in a situation much like a fellow in line behind us for entering the Temple Mount. We waited on line. Passed security, proceeded up the ramp and at the TOP of the ramp, at the gate, the security guards denied this fellow entrance because he was wearing shorts. "No short pants allowed!"

5. There is no set best route around Old Jerusalem to get to holy sites/and hours of opening. There are no set rules for getting in, either. While I was there the rules concerning Muslim men were changed and then changed again, ending on: Muslim men over the age of 40 are the only people allowed on Temple Mount on Fridays for prayers. But we saw some younger men exiting, too? So, I have no clue. (The rules are always changing in order to protect the sites. There have been many attempts to destroy Al Aqsa and the Dome of the Rock by various extremist organizations and individuals.)

6. Don't be in the streets in the Muslim quarter after prayer time ends on the Temple Mount. You will be trampled.

7. On Fridays, go to the Jewish quarter and get a loaf (or seven) of fresh, steaming hot Challah bread. YUM!

8. No price is fixed in the Muslim quarter. But don't even think about trying to haggle in the Jewish quarter.

9. The people in the Muslim quarter are among the friendliest I've ever met. If you even look like you might be lost, it won't take 30 seconds before someone asks "Where are you going?" and they'll happily give you directions.

10. Don't ask a devout Jew for directions to anywhere in the Muslim Quarter. They don't know. Or they pretend not to know. I don't know which.
(We asked a Jewish kid for the fastest directions back to Damascus gate, in the Muslim quarter.
"Damascus Gate? You mean Jaffa gate?"
"No, Damascus Gate."
"I do not know Damacus Gate."
(Say Whaaaa? Old Jerusalem is like, tiny! This is comparable to living in a town of 100 people and not knowing where the only restaurant in town is.)

11. The Old City pretty much shuts down Sunset on Friday through Saturday afternoon for Shabbat. Bring a book.

12. Be flexible as a traveler. Give yourself ample time to do things. You will get lost. You will be confused. But if you go with a good attitude and are open to deviations, you'll have an amazing time.

13. Ladies: In churches, while sitting, don't cross your legs, cross your ankles. I'm not sure why. It is what it is. When we asked a woman caretaker of one church in the Armenian quarter why this was, she said "We must give praise to Him." ? Again, it is what it is.

What should travelers know about visiting YOUR city?





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