Showing posts with label Bodrum. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bodrum. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

The Greek Coconut Express

Have you ever had an experience with the Coconut Express?

Have you even heard of the Coconut Express?  

If not, I'll 'splain. The term comes from island communities, the tropical type, with a very active gossip chain. Tropical island/coconut trees + gossip = Coconut Express. Its' not just any gossip chain. It's THE COCONUT EXPRESS. I mean, the speed at which information travels on this train is amazing. Even before the days of texting and cell phones, information could make it's way around small, remote islands in a flash. 

The Coconut Express can work to your detriment, or, in my case, one day on the Greek isle of Kos, to your benefit:
 --
Sometimes the wishes of the travel gods are just not aligned with the wishes of us mere mortals. 

Sometimes you've just gotta go with it.

A two-mile walk from my hotel to the harbor (on the hottest, muggiest morning of the season) in Bodrum earlier that morning, followed by a ferry ride from Turkey to Greece and a second two-mile-long walk from the harbor to the bus depot (all while carrying too much luggage) had left me exhausted.

*I could* have opted for a cab to take me to my hotel from the port area, but when I asked the price my jaw dropped and stubborn economization set in. 37 Euro! 

So I walked to the bus depot. I'd arrived at the correct bus stop only to discover that buses to my destination on Kos only ran twice per day. The first bus had run two hours prior. The next wasn't scheduled for several more hours.

Hot, drippy, sweaty, thirsty exhaustion planted me firmly onto a bench outside of the depot in the shade. Impeding dehydration drove me to stand and walk 20 yards to a nearby refreshment vendor and purchase two bottles of water. After downing the first and half of the second in a few gulps, my stubborn streak had subsided and I was ready to find a taxi and pay the outrageous sum of 37 Euro to have a driver deliver me to my hotel's doorstep.

Five minutes passed. Then ten. And I was about to come to terms with the fact the I may need to shlup myself and my belongings back to the harbor and it's taxi stand.

And then a sleek, silver Mercedes approached with a yellow taxi sign atop it. It drove down the narrow, one-way street in my direction, but I could see that it was already carrying a passenger.

Knowing that Kos was an island, and knowing that nothing is better or more efficient on islands than the proverbial Coconut Express, (Greek Isles lacking coconuts, I wonder what the equivalent is in Greece?) I stood and waved at the driver, who looked at me and drove by, shaking his head and motioning to the passengers in the back. I nodded back to him and then sat down again on my bench in the shade.

I was certain I'd have a cab within five minutes. Coconut Express Style.

And I was not disappointed, as another silver Mercedes (All of the cabs in the Greek Isles are Mercedes) pulled up and stopped in front of me within minutes. The driver hopped out, opened my door and stowed my bags in the trunk as I crawled into the air conditioned, black leather lined oasis.

"You waved at another cab?" He asked, trying to figure out what must have been an unsual thing.

"Yes I did. Thank you for coming to pick me up."

"My friend, he called me to tell me to come here. He was already busy." His English was quite good, barely broken by his Greek accent.

"Yes." I smiled and nodded. "Can you take me to such and such hotel?

"Certainly."

It was a 30-minute ride across the island to my hotel, which I hadn't known when booking. (My choices while booking were limited by mileage award availability - yup, booked this stay with airline miles.)

But the conversation that ensued illustrated perfectly the difference in culture between the country I'd just left, and the place I was now. An hour ferry ride and a shift in basic attitude toward life, love, women and liberty.

Turkey to Greece. Ultra conservatism (but still VERY liberal in comparison to other Muslim countries I've visited) versus very Mediterranean attitude.

Looking back, I enjoyed both places. But I was much more comfortable in Greece. I am a Californian after all. Liberal coastal place/Mediterranean, they're somewhat similar in some respects.

"How did you like Turkey?" Asked my very curious, very helpful, quasi-flirty middle-aged Greek driver.

"I liked it very much. But I am happy to be in Greece and able to walk the streets without a headscarf."

"You will have no problems with that here. The Turks, they are too somber. We Greeks are passionate! You travel alone? You have no boyfriend? You will have a good time here."

I just had to laugh. Because while I was more comfortable with the Greek mentality, my own beliefs lean much more toward ultra conservatism.

I gave the driver his 37 Euro and a hefty tip for a great, informative, entertaining ride and lovely air conditioning.

Yes, I would have a good time on Kos.

Long live the Coconut Express!


--
Photos of my hotels in Bodrum, and in Kos. Yes, I know the hotels are two entirely different classes, but the stark difference between the two places rather perfectly describes in two photos the difference between Turkey and Greece (for me).

This is my hotel in Bodrum, Turkey. Very Spartan. And honestly I couldn't have been happier there. 
(Especially as I'd just come from here)
Great price. Clean. Great location. Two blocks from the beach. 



And this is my hotel in Kos, Greece. An entirely different league. Plush, comfortable, renewing with a balcony overlooking the ocean.



Monday, April 16, 2012

Turkey: Hits & Misses

Places visited while in Turkey in 7 days:
-Istanbul
-Izmir
-Kusadasi
-Ephesus
-Bodrum
(Click city names above for links to articles/reviews)

Places visited I'd return to:
-Istanbul
-Ephesus
-Bodrum


Places in Turkey I wish I'd had more time to visit:
-Cappadocia (Land of Cave hotels, amazing rock formations and hot air balloons)



(Photos from: http://travelandtourismtoday.blogspot.com/2010/09/cappadocia-in-nevsehir-turkey.html)



-Olympos (check out this GREAT article on BBC.com/Lonley Planet about little-known Olympos)
Stay in a treehouse on the coast!


-Kas, where you can sea-kayak over an ancient sunken city


-Pammukele - I daydream of relaxing in these amazing hot springs:



Other Tips for Turkey:
-Book your own flights and side-journeys. There are a ton of travel agencies and hotels that will offer to book you a trip to Cappadocia or the like. It's hit and miss. You may end up with a good tour. Or you may get ripped off. I'd say the odds of getting ripped off are about 80%. Yah. Check out TripAdvisor to find good hotels and book your own travel and accommodations so you can do what you want, the way you want.  If you just want to join a group, then by all means, book a packaged tour.

-Americans like to tie up odds and ends like bus tickets and ferry tickets in advance, via the internet. Booking travel in advance via the web simply isn't available for Turkey like it is in the states. Don't worry about it. In Turkey, it's normal to book onward tickets within two weeks, or even days of when you want to travel. My advice: Book your arrival travel into Istanbul, or wherever you'll begin and then arrange your bus/ferry tickets for your next destination when you get to Turkey. For best/cheapest results, go directly to a bus depot or Ferry terminal. Or book through someone you trust. (Exceptions: Flights and hotels. Arrange these in advance.)

-Bus travel: it's great in Turkey. Really. Cheap, comfortable and accessible. If you don't want to risk renting a car in Turkey, travel by bus.

-Realistically you should allow three+ weeks to comprehensively see Turkey. Seriously.

Monday, April 9, 2012

Bodrum: Myndus Gate

Not too far away from the Mausoleum in Bodrum (one of the seven ancient wonders of the world) is another historical site called the Myndus Gate. It was anciently one of two portals into the walled city of Halicarnassus. Halicarnassus was an important seaport in the days of ancient Greece Persia and Rome.

Nowadays, there isn't much left of the Myndus Gate, but it has been somewhat reconstructed and the site has been preserved. You can stand on what is left of the turrets and look out at the surrounding hills to the East, and the sea to the West. Imagine standing in place during the time of the Greeks and at the time of Alexander the Great...


Mydus/Myndos = Potato/Potahto ?




 View from the gate looking out of the city.


View from the gate looking down on the city/toward the sea. 
(Yes, that's a medieval castle/fortress in the foreground.)


True Story.

 Outside the city gate: An amphitheater.


All in all, a great step back into history and well worth the hot, sweaty walk.

NB: Bodrum might be somewhat breezy and temperate near the sea, but climb up it's amphitheater-like streets, into the hills, and the temperature rises exponentially! TAKE LOADS OF WATER, and slather on the sunscreen.



One gratuitous photo and story, just because:



I ran into these guys just before reaching the Mynus gate, they stopped their truck in an intersection (not busy) and asked the normal "Where are you from" that I'd grown accustomed to in the Middle Eastern Clime.

"California" replied I.

Instead of the expected "You are welcome" response, I heard this:

"I love you."

And got a goofy grin from the guys in the truck. Which I promptly took a photo of. Wouldn't you?


Friday, April 6, 2012

Bodrum: The Mausoleum

Having only one afternoon in a city can be a good thing or a bad one. 
Having only one afternoon in Bodrum was a bad thing for me.


Here's what trusty Wiki has to say about Bodrum:

The first recorded settlers in Bodrum region were the Carians and the harbor area was colonized by Dorian Greeks as of the 7th century BC. The city later fell under Persian rule. Under the Persians, it was the capital city of the satrapy of Caria, the region that had since long constituted its hinterland and of which it was the principal port. Its strategic location ensured that the city enjoyed considerable autonomy. Archaeological evidence from the period such as the recently discovered Salmakis (Kaplankalesi) Inscription, now in Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology, attest to the particular pride[clarification needed] its inhabitants had developed.[4] A famous native was Herodotus, the Greek historian (484-420 BC).

 
Ancient Halicarnassus was also home to one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, The Mausoleum. The Mausoleum was built in ancient times as the tomb of King Mausolus. Though it no longer stands, the site is preserved and can be visited. All that remain now are heaps of rubble, a fun little cave and some broken columns. There is also a little museum that explains the site and how the ancient wonder used to look.

Altogether, definitely worth a look if you find yourself in Bodrum.














Monday, April 2, 2012

One Short Day in Bodrum...

Arriving in Bodrum from was immediately a relief after having spent far too long in the seedy, dry, dusty, altogether unimpressive city of Kusadasi. The temperature was warmer by at least ten degrees than Istanbul and the entire place had the feel of a lush vacation spot. The locals were charming and all smiles, and shockingly wanted to have their photo taken when they took notice of my DSLR! One mother at the beach even went so far as to point to her child and say "You take picture!"

Sadly, I only spent one night in a very, very basic hotel in Bodrum (hotel details below).
Oh lovely Bodrum! I wish I could have stayed a few more days.

Don't miss:
-The beach.
-Great shopping.
-Historical sites: The Mausoleum, the Castle and Myndos Gate.
-Take a stroll along the waterfront. It's gorgeous!

DO Miss:
-Eating the little, round donuts drenched in honey that are displayed here in glass cases. (#IncubusOfBacterialPlague)














If you're looking for a great, budget-friendly place to stay in Bodrum, check out:
Hotel Gulec, cost about $50US/night for a double room, single use.
Extremely spartan, but comfortable and run by generous, accommodating people.

Perks:
-Beautiful garden
-Close (2 blocks) to the beach and a gorgeous downtown shopping area.
-Walkable distance (with luggage) to the Ferry port and the local bus station.
-Great AC
-The owner arranged for a ferry ticket for me on arrival (I was traveling to Kos the next morning), which he did not upcharge at all. (When I reached the ferry port the next morning I was told numerous stories by other passengers at how much they were overcharged by local scalpers and hotel managers. Yikes!)
-The owner even prepared a to-go breakfast for me for the next morning as "breakfast is included in the price, but you will depart too early." (It was a tomato & cheese sandwich on a large bread roll)

Hotel Gulec room:

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

WONOCLOCK!


Today:
I woke at 7am from the most pleasant dream… I wish I could remember it! My alarm clock commanded my presence in the land of the wakeful, so I woke. Blast. I packed up my things and found the owner of the little Pension I was staying in had arranged a breakfast sandwich for me (standard fare in Turkey for Breakfast – a big hoagie bun with Tomatoes and tangy Turkish cheese) since I was leaving prior to the 8:30am breakfast buffet. Seriously. 8:30 am! Only in Turkey. Okay, probably in the Caribbean too. Anywhere else in the world you’ll find breakfast steaming hot and ready starting around 5am. Boggles the mind. Anyhow, nice of the man to give me a sandwich for the road. I was out the door by 8 and on my way to Bodrum’s ferry port. I believe I chose the hottest, most windlessly stagnant, muggy day in the history of days to shlup all my belongings by foot down to the Ferry port. It was a twenty minute walk and I was absolutely drenched in sweat five minutes in.

Have you ever ridden a Greek or Turkish ferry? It’s an interesting experience. The hotel owner (sandwich man, who, by the way, when I checked in showed up at the front desk wearing swimmers with a bare chest and proceeded to check me in. LAID BACK.) he says to me when I bought the ferry ticket from him “You ‘ave Eight terty be at poort. Nineoclock leeeve.”

Check. 8:30 and I’m still in line at the check-in counter at the port to exchange my voucher for a ticket, along with about 100 other people. By 9:00 I’m in line to get my passport stamped for departure from Turkey. 9:15, I’m onboard. 9:30, we’re still waiting for the rest of the passengers. 9:45, we leave.  The ride is only supposed to take twenty minutes and I have no idea if that proved true or not because the next time I looked at my watch it was 10:25 and I had just cleared Greek customs.

"TirtySiven Euro." That’s the price for a taxi to take me from the port to my hotel across the island. Ridiculous. I checked with two other taxis in two other locations. TirtySiven Euro! RIDICULOUS!! That’s like fifty five bucks US! So I shlupped my backpacks through downtown, asking directions for the bus depot on the way. About two miles and two painful shoulders later, it’s 11:00 I make it to the bus depot and ask a driver when the next bus to Kardamena is.

WonOClock! He replied stoicly.

WONOCLOCK!
It was 38 degrees celcius with no breeze.  

WONOCLOCK!

The bus depot sat in direct sun, and so did I!  

WONOCLOCK! 

I wasn’t sure I was going to make it that long without a bathroom due to my run-in with the Sultan’s Revenge. (Food Poisoning). Unable to move again, I just sat in the sun, thinking to myself: 37 Frickin Frackin Bloody Euro!!! (PLUS TIP!) Grrr! Argh! And then I waved at the first taxi driver I saw, who was busy, but awesome enough to call up one of his mates and send him over. Thirty minutes later I’m at my hotel…

And was it worth the trouble?

See for yourself:



A nap and a dip in the ocean and I was right as rain. Followed up with a deee-lish greek-style buffet dinner and I’m good to go. Greek food is amaaaaazing. Just sayin’.

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