Showing posts with label Bus. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bus. Show all posts

Monday, January 28, 2013

Duct Tape, Ideas and Paradigms

A boy, not much older than sixteen swept up and down the aisle of the bus, checking passports and eying everyone suspiciously, trying desperately to not look as nervous as he did. When he reached the last third of the bus and came across three American girls, his eyes flashed briefly with panic and it made me ridiculously nervous. The situation in Bethlehem had just begun to escalate to the point of protests and gunfire as we left the town only twenty minutes prior. To say the air was fraught with tension would be putting things very mildly. And when I saw the checkpoint patrol kid's gun, my insides went all ping pong ball-ish and agitated, but I tried with my might to retain my cool, to not become the problem.

You see, the gun he cradled tensely in his arms wasn't quite up-to-snuff. Every soldier we'd seen in Israel up to that point had been polished, precise, professional and beautifully put together. But THIS particular boy, who I must assume was not an Israeli soldier, but rather a Palestinian soldier/representative of the West Bank at the West Bank/Israeli checkpoint outside of Jerusalem, near Bethlehem, was carrying a gun patched together haphazardly with silver duct tape. He wore no uniform. He looked as though he hadn't had a day of training in his life Nothing felt official about this supposed official, except the fact that he had a gun, and I didn't. And in this particular situation, that felt like a very dangerous thing.

If you were carrying a machine gun patched together with duct tape, wouldn't you be nervous as well? Wouldn't you be praying, with every bit of every part of your body that nothing would happen on that bus, that no one would make you need to raise that questionably functional gun and defend your border/self?

What exactly was he defending? I'm not certain. There is a set of rules for who can enter Jerusalem that is seemingly ridiculous, but actually specifically targets the greatest threats to the city: Israeli/Palestinian men between adolescence and the age of forty. The boy was in the West Bank, not Israel proper. So, what exactly was the point of that checkpoint? Was the boy defending Israeli territory from Palestinian insurgents? I would be lying if I said I understand the complexities of Israel. All I can tell you is that in that moment my life lay in the hands of a nervous teenager with a janky gun.

Normally I have photos to accompany my posts. But normally I don't have a nervous teenager with a patched-up gun making life and death decisions about me and my companions hovering over me.

It was one of those moments when you first say a silent prayer, and then take stock of your life and perhaps re-evaluate your decision-making paradigm; the same paradigm that had led me to that point, of being in Israel during a war. Of hearing rockets being fired at Jerusalem, toward ME as I lay in bed in a convent in the Old City. Of flying into the city where bombs were falling and actively killing people.

Two minutes later the boy climbed out of the bus and we drove off, back into Israeli territory, leaving behind Bethlehem and the West Bank. And we FELT safe again, whatever that feels like. Because it's only a feeling, safety. It's only an IDEA, like lanes of traffic on the freeway.

But that feeling is pretty important.

The Bethlehem/Jerusalem security checkpoint
photo from: http://nzconservative.blogspot.com/2011/01/trip-to-bethlehem.html

Friday, January 20, 2012

A Turkish Bus Ride

My friends, bus rides are the way to travel around Turkey, aside from airplanes. Bus rides. Who knew?

Bus Depots are alive and well in Turkey! They are what Greyhound was fifty years ago, a means to traverse large distances relatively inexpensively. But these days while Greyhound seems to be dwindling somewhat in the US, Bus travel in Turkey is thriving. That's because Turkey is vast. And it is not connected by a train system. Airplanes fly all over the country, sure, but a newbie to travel isn't going to want to mess with the rental car system/driving in Turkey. SO buses.

I traveled from Izmir to Bodrum by bus. It took around four hours in a comfortable, assigned-seating bus with in-seat entertainment systems. (Sure, it was all in Turkish, but it was still entertaining. Maybe more than normal.) I'm convinced that if I'd been in a car the trip would have only taken two hours. And if it'd been in the US, it probably would have been a 75 minute trip. Yah. But so it is.

We made one stop along the way, a literal five-minute pit stop (squatter bathrooms). Heaven help the person who misses a bus there! We were somewhere out in the middle of nowhere. In the mid-section of Turkey, somewhat inland away from the coast. Until the moment I stepped off of that bus I thought I'd experienced heat. I've traveled to Egypt and Jordan and the Caribbean, for pete's sake. Nothing had ever prepared me for the breath-robbing wall of heat that met me when I stepped out of the air-conditioned bus. Dry and hot, like standing over a roaring pit-fire, the temperature of this place could be seen in waves rising off of the ground. I got back on the bus and away we went.

An hour later, the bus turned slightly to the right and we made for the southern coast of Turkey. Gone was the oppressive heat, replaced with cool salty breeze mingled with a Mediterranean blue sea and bright pink bowers of bougainvillea.

A year or so ago, while I was visiting Karchner Caverns outside of Tucson, Arizona, I met a British couple traveling across the US. We began to chat about travel, as travelers do, and when I mentioned that I was planning to visit Turkey soon, they gave me heaps and loads of suggestions. Do, they said, travel by bus! It's cheap and easy and quite comfortable. See Bodrum and Pamukkele and Ephesus and Kas and dozens of other little places along the way. Well, I didn't make it inland to Cappadocia or far South to Kas (Was SORELY dissappointed to miss seeing the sunken city there), but I can definitely confirm that bus travel in Turkey is indeed the way to go! Alas, I'll be back again to see the rest.


Tips:
-Book ahead. At least three days to a week. You'll probably have trouble with same-day tickets. Especially in the tourist season.
-Book directly, in-person at the bus depot. It'll save you time and money and runaround. Turkey is full of "middlemen" who are quite happy to help you out, for a price.
-TIME. As in, you need it if you go to Turkey, time to see everything. You could make a good go at Turkey in two weeks by bus. Three would be best.



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