Faraway Fantasy Friday: Capri

Rome: Been. LOVE IT. Going back to live (next year).

Venice: Been. Stunning. Back again someday.

Milan: Been. Cool place.

The rest of Italy: I'm going. Y'all know that I'm moving abroad next spring and that at this point, most of my time abroad will be spent in Italia, primarily in Rome.

But there is SO much more to see... and I'm going to explore the boot.

Capri is high on my list of Italian Priorities. That gorgeous little island in the South. Historically Capri is where the wealthy Romans (of the ancient variety) vacationed in Summer to escape the heat.

Photo from: http://www.italianvisits.com/images/campagna-im/capri-im/capri-terrace.jpg

Today I'm daydreaming of visiting this island paradise, soaking up the sun from bougainvillea-covered terraces, swimming into the Blue Grotto with my camera in a dry-bag to snap photos and see the ancient statues and generally just, well, holiday.

Photo from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Grotta_azzurra.jpg

By: Frédéric de Goldschmidt www.frederic.net

Where do you want to be today?

Buyer's Remorse

I did it.
I booked my tour, hotels and most of my flights (save one... because I really can't decide what to do after Cairo). And with the new year, my four and a half month countdown is so real it's practically screaming at me. I'm so excited I can barely keep my toe tapping to a minimum at work. Now I strap in, buckle up, bear down. Now I scrimp and save and cut out the frivolity in my budgeting so that I can actually go on this trip comfortably. Over-prepare now. Then go with the flow.

Now the weight of what I've done sets in. It shocks me: I've really just decided to go to specific places, I've pinned down the dream vacation (this year's)... No more lazy days of wondering where I'll go and what I'll do when I get there. No more TripAdvisor top 10 lists (and thereafter maniacal bouts of research on those places). There is something more specific in the air now. Rome, Jordan. Egypt... (And maybe Naples, Capri, Pompeii too?)

But what of Marrakesh, Casablanca, Tangier? Athens, Cyprus, Crete? Capetown, Tel Aviv, Sydney, Jerusalem, Bali, Istanbul? What happened to sailing around the Caribbean in a 40-foot sailboat? What about San Juan?

These un-traveled-to places taunt me. They whisper mean things to me, much like a Mother who wants a visit: "Why aren't you coming here this year? Why aren't you here now? How could you think to pass us over like that? And just how much longer do you think you can keep up these crazy, unbridled travels before you stop?" I just smile back at them and say "You don't know me at all do you?... Well, except you, San Juan, my love." And I wink at San Juan. He smiles back that dark and devastatingly addictive tropical smile. I waver and think to run back to him. But only for a second.

And then we all sit quietly together in my head. Hands folded neatly in laps, feet tapping the floor.

Because the elephant in the room for all of us is that they don't know me. And I don't know them. Not yet. Perhaps not this year. But in the years to come, who knows? And anyway, places don't know people. Places don't care about people, they only care about being the ever-changing yet always true to itself place that they are. But people can know places, and I will know those places, and that is my point.

Just for now, wait. Wait. I'll be there soon. And I'm not remorseful.

Roman Daydreams

Work has been boring lately. Seriously boring. It's the time of year. Things slow down in my department. So I've had a considerable amount of time to surf the internet, do homework (I'm taking an online class), facebook... but mostly, I check out travel deals and research hotels in Rome. Specifically hotels near the Pantheon. Having nothing to do at work for eight hours a day is a horrible little catalyst for my Italian (Roman) obsession.

You see I'm planning a two-week vacation for next spring. And it's going to be fantastic. After this spring's three-day Roman fling, I've been dreaming of going back. The past three days at work have even lent themselves to giving me time to daydream of strolling down the Via del Corso. Lunching on authentic pasta con pancetta in the Piazza del Popolo. Making short work of a dark cioccolatta e nutella gelatto con crema! And yes, even flirting with HOT Roman men, the self-same descendants of the ancient Romans, in fluent Italian. Perhaps I should have mentioned them first.

Just one problem with those daydreams. I don't speak Italian! But somehow in my daydreams I'm as fluent as an acrobat is lithe.

Okay, I speak a little Italian. Ma solo um 'po, e non multo bene! (But only a little, and not very well! - Though my knowledge of that phrase, combined with a convincing and [I'm not ashamed to admit] rehearsed-in-the-shower oratorial delivery has in the past led groups of Italian sailors to begin conversing in native Italian dialects, rather than straight Italian, with me around!) My Italian was ample to get me around on the aforementioned previous Roman holiday. Quite nicely, I might add.

Here's the proof:
Italian detour blog 1
Italian detour blog 2
Italian detour blog 3
Italian detour blog 4
Italian detour blog 5

But I digress. I'm good at digressing.

The point is that after several months of lightly perusing hotel listings and three days of labored searching through hotel listings, my obsessive compulsion to find just the right hotel in just the right location at just the right price has paid off!

I was about to book a lovely little hotel. It's located in a 16th century palace. It's facade is covered in ivy vines. Nothing luxurious, but nice, cute and clean. It was price was affordable (given the Euro to Dollar conversion) and location desirable. But something urged me on. You see, my taste of Rome this past April helped me to understand something about Rome: It is a city where you have to be in the know. Sure, many cities are like that, but with Rome, that attitude includes over a millennium of inherited family pride, patria and a sense of self-identity so engrained in a people that they feel no keen need to advertise an especially lovely little family run albergo (hotel) on a monster site such as priceline or hotels.com. The people come to them and find them. Always have, always will. After all, it's ROME!

Bearing that in mind, I knew what I was looking for. I had a picture in my mind's-eye of the perfect little mom and pop hotel located in an alley adjacent to the Pantheon (You might ask "Why the Pantheon?" Because that's where the picture-perfect Roman holiday takes place this spring in my head! Don't ask ridiculous questions!).

The hotels were either gorgeous and correctly located but way too expensive, or attractively priced but located by the Vatican or by Termini station (the main train station, about a thirty minute walk) instead of by the Pantheon. Dilemma! Dilemma! Dilemma!


I almost caved and booked something that I wasn't perfectly happy about. And then, after three days of exhaustive searching, I happened on this little item:

The Hotel Mimosa. Undyingly proud (in only the way a Roman could be -seriously, check out the website) of it's 1-star accomodations and service. Located directly (and I mean practically as an appendage) behind the Pantheon. Fantastico! And what's even better - the price! Several hundred dollars less expensive than the other modestly priced place I was looking at. I know, I know, you get what you pay for. I tripadvisor.com'd it for reviews and found it to be exactly what I was expecting it to be - something more akin to a hostel than a hotel. Bingo. I'm a single traveler. I'm from the US, home to the dollar, which is getting crappy exchange rates currently. Were I married and looking for a romantic getaway with a gorgeous, flower-laden balcony and snooty people to cater to my whims, I'd book this hotel. But this trip is down and dirty backpack traveling. With an en-suite bathroom.

I'm satisified.

Plus, as an added bonus, in case I should change my mind there are no penalties for cancellation (a rare thing in Rome) up to seven days prior to arrival. 5 nights @ 70 Euro/night. The other hotel: 120 Euro/night. Convert to dollars.  That's a three hundred dollar savings that will be spent on pasta, gelatto, chocolate pastries, museum entries, shameless flirting with hot Italian men (okay, that's free) and a flight from Rome to Istanbul, Santorini or Cyprus. (To be determined later.) Brava!

Italian Odds and Ends

I'm finally getting around to posting the photos of miscellaneous bits I missed previously. The photos below are all Amy's (the fearless friend who bought a ticket and then jumped on a plane four hours later to come out and play in Rome!)... She's got a great photographic style. Uh, PS, the photos are in reverse chronological order... so if you start at the bottom and work your way up - that's the order the trip actually happened in. LOL.

Eating Gelatto on the Spanish Steps...



















This is Adriano - the Italian guy who gave us a bottle of wine.

Me at the Colosseum (Love the Candid shots Amy took!)

Taking the long way around the Forum

Checking out the Italian version of a Chocolate Croissant... It was called a "pana di Cioccolatta" or something like that.

























My first real Italian Gelatto - on our first night in Ostia - after one life-changing plate of amazing pasta. Yum. Clearly, we ate our way across Rome.

Outside view from our seaside restaurant. It was the cutest little beach place!

This guy serenaded us with lovely elevator music during our dinner in Ostia... Gotta love the accent... and the WINKING! Hahahaha...

The amazingly cool woman who worked at the pastry shop in Ostia.

Hehehe... After finally arriving at the airport in Rome, both of us, completely exhausted made it onto the right bus and headed to our hostel. When we got on the city bus in Ostia, we were immediately recognized for being American tourists by a couple of local "thugs" (Ha! In Holland, this type of wanna-be thug is referred to in all seriousness as being "Ghetto-fabulous") These guys wanted to show off how "street" they were so they immediately started playing an Eminem song from a cell phone, as loud as it would go. Gotta love riding local busses! When we finally disembarked our bus, the one in the photo with Amy called out after us in English "Bye" (it sounded more like buyeee!) and we were off again...

A typical street in suburban Ostia - this is what happens when the modern world meets ancient city planning. Tiny cars parked on tiny streets.

This photo takes the cake. It is just absolutely a brilliant representation of the moxy that is the economy European traveler.

The Rest of My Glorious Day in Roma!

After arriving at the Piazza di Capidoglio, we spent a few minutes, snapped more photos and then continued on past the other side of the Forum and on to the Colosseum...

There were amazing buildings, statues, obelisks and monuments in any direction. There was so much to look at that you just couldn't see everything! Everywhere there was another archaeological area, a ruin, etc... There were also a few people out there "Busking" - or begging/street performing for money.

Some of them were very entertaining:

Finally we made it up to the Colosseum. I have to say - it's stunning. Simply amazing.

It's huge and the detail awe-inspiring. Everywhere outside of the Colosseum there are people trying to sell you guided tours, food vendors and HOT Italian men dressed up like gladiators that charge you to take a photo with them. (Amy was inspired by this to want to marry an Italian and have Gladiator night...) We opted to skip the guided tour (25 Euro extra) and wait in the line. We decided to go for the audio tour (it got us through the line WAY faster and only cost an extra 4 Euro). Well, first of all, the audio tour thingy was REALLLLLLLLY dang boring. It's kind of a buzz-kill too. The voiceover is really boring and monotonous and just conflicted with the feel of the actual Colosseum. So we shut them off and just wandered. I'm sure there was some fantastic information on those audio tours, but much of what we heard is practically common knowledge. So we spent a good chunk of time just walking around, admiring, taking photos, enjoying the sheer majesty and epic architecture/engineering that is the Colosseum. Fantastic.

Oh, FYI - before leaving the Colosseum, we used the toilet. That's right, we peed in the Colosseum. Pretty cool.

HUNGER! That's what happens when you haven't eaten in a while. I'm not going to lie - we ate a couple of hours prior - a nice fruit snack, so I wasn't ravenous, but considering we were in ITALY I decided to suck it up, take one for the team and go ahead and eat.

We took the gentleman who we ran into at the top of the Forum's advice and found his ristorante (Cafe Le Numacchia, which means "Sea Battle") tucked away a few blocks behind the Collosseum. We had delicious pasta again! This time I had Bucatini pasta... yummm... And then something ensued that was probably one of my favorite adventures of my entire life. Truly. An Italian man sat behind me and Amy became obsessed with the color of his eyes. Blue, but light, glassy grey-blue. Gorgeous. Eventually she took a couple of photos of him, trying to get the color. Of course he came up to us and asked to see the photos! Push came to shove and we ended up with a bottle of Italian Wine as a gift from him (see previous blog post "Adventures with a Bottle of Vino). :)

Full, fat and happy again, we decided it was definitely nap time. Headed to the nearest park and parked it overlooking the Colosseum on a grassy hill.

Now refreshed, we decided to get back to the serious business of being tourists. By this point, I was REALLLLLY ready to hop on a scooter, but alas we couldn't find a scooter rental place, or catch a couple of hot guys with them to take us for a spin. :( Maybe I should have called the guy from the previous night? ...Nah.

We had some priority sights to see: The Colosseum (Check), The Forum (Check), The Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and Pantheon. Vatican City we'd hit up if we weren't too pooped after those five. We'd mapped out what looked like a good route, but unfortunately the map was really not that great. So we started walking and just kept walking. We eventually ended up at the Spanish Steps (which we'd expected to see after the Trevi Fountain).

There's not much actual ancient history to the Spanish Steps - they were built to connect the Piazza di Spagna to the church above. In the 1800's or 1900's, some author came along and said the steps were "THE" place to go to socialize and people-watch. They are featured in the film "Roman Holiday." Amy and I grabbed some Gelato and sat down on the steps to read about them in our guide book.

While we were doing this, we heard a group of people below us, cheering! We stood up to see a couple in a horse-drawn carriage surrounded by a crowd. The guy had just proposed to the girl. After receiving his answer, he raised his arm with his hand curled in a fist and shook it, victorious! The crowd erupted into cheers and then everyone promptly went their way.

Another highlight was this adorable little Italian, curly-haired boy (age three-ish who kept running around us (and accidentally[?] grabbed Amy's boob in passing. Italian men. LOL.)

Next up we looked for the Trevi Fountain... this is where we actually got lost. Plus we were exhausted and not really thinking straight. We went WAY too far and ended up at the Piazza del Popolo (Place of the People), which was also gorgeous, just not the desired target. Turned around and headed back down Via del Corso and found The Pantheon!

HOLY.... The Pantheon. Another building that shows just how incredible Roman builders were. The scale, size... Che Belleza! Astounding. It was originally built by the Romans as a temple to worship all of their gods (hence the name Pantheon), but it was taken over by Christians later and turned into another Christian church. To this very day, it's free-standing domed roof and oculus remain an unparalleled feat of architecture.

A really cool, public fountain outside of the Pantheon

Same fountain - if you plug the bottom, the water squirts up, making a drinking fountain! Ingenious!

Three coins in the Fountain! Another great old film. It features the Trevi Fountain. Legend says that if you throw a coin into the Fountain, you will return again to Rome. Well I definitely couldn't miss that! If I had my way, I'd never again leave Rome.

After the Pantheon, we came full circle back to the Piazza di Campidoglio. The sun was just starting to peak at Sunset. We hadn't yet decided what do to - we were exhausted. We wanted to see Rome at night, all lit up, but didn't know if we would make it that long, especially given that it would take an hour to get back to our Hostel and I had a flight to catch in the morning. Blast! So, not sure what to do and in a sleep-deprived stupor, we sat on the steps, laid back and took a nap with a bunch of other people in the Piazza. When in Rome!

One particularly cute little kid was having trouble sleeping:

You'd better believe I'm going back. As soon as I can! I loved London. I loved Paris. I've enjoyed the beauty of many cities, from San Francisco to Saint Petersburg. But Rome puts them all to shame. There's so much more to see and do. It's simply my niche. I could live there quite easily. Maybe I will.

Adventures With a Bottle of Vino

The Italians love their wine. This is a well-known fact. For them, wine is as much a part of the day as air or water. And so it is given and received as measures of hospitality, as tokens and show of affection, appreciation - always appropriate in Italian Culture.

Yesterday in Roma, Amy (my travel companion) and I met an Italian man at lunch named Adriano (of course it is!). He stopped an chatted (flirted) with us a while and then apologized because he has to leave in order to make it home to Firenze (Florence) in time for his next appuntamento (appointment). We said goodbye and finished our lunch. Just as we exited the restaurant he pulls up in his car, rolls down the window and hands over a bottle of wine!
So although he was in a terrible rush (Italian style), before we had finished our meal and exited the restaurant, he managed to purchase a bottle of wine and drove by in his car just as we emerged to hand it to me. "It is a beautiful, light, wine, very nice. Keep it cool, drink it slowly. Enjoy your travels. Buona passegiata. Ciao."


We thanked him, waved as he drove away in the Italian manner- tranformed from the easy going guy into the guy, who like all Italians on the road, is the sole proprietor of said road.
This morning as I rose from my very comfortable bed in my ridiculously lush hostel (oxymoron, I know, yet true!) I had a very difficult time of shaking off the sleep. It's been a long and wonderful week filled with beautiful experiences and a lot of travel! I'm tired!

I packed up my backpacks (large frame pack and smaller day pack) and made my way to the airport via taxi. (May 1 is like labor day in Italy so as much as I would have preffered to take a bus (1,20 €) they simply were not running.) Anyhow, I arrived, checked in and shlupped myself to the security check, where a guard informed me with a smile that I had a bottle of vino in my carry-on backpack which was not allowed. Panic!
The security fellow suggested I go and get my checked bag, insert said bottle of vino in checked bag and then come back to the security checkpoint (which he would arrange or me to go through without waiting on the line again) or I would have to disopse of it. He really wanted me to keep it. In fact, he was most accommodating and encouraging - and I felt very keenly the need to keep my Italian trophy! And so I went back to the check-in-counter where, when I presented my request to the check-in Woman, I encountered the famous Italian Woman's glare. It is a formidable thing!!

Here is how you get around it- you need a bit of gusto. Stand your ground. When said Italian woman is done glaring disdainfully at you, she will do what she can to help (despite the obviously terrible inconvenience you have caused her. Once things are shaping up, be very grateful - immediately - that she has been so gracious and accomodating.
After a few phone calls, my bag was waiting at baggage claim no. 9 - almost immediately. How's that for service?
My next problem was getting into he bagage claim area. If you have traveled internationally, you know that the baggage claim is beyond an impenetrable wall of one way doors meant only to be exited by passengers finished with their itineraries. I knew that. But che buffo! I'm an akward Americana! I snuck in anyway. Only in Italy would they simply stop you and send you to the right place. In the states you'd be detained and interrogated! I was sent through another security check where I was explained to by two confused Italian gate guards that what I was doing was not allowed. It my best Italian-ish I explained my piccolo problema an motioned that my bag was waiting for me at baggage claim nove, 9. One fellow picked up my bottle of wine and tenderly examined it with a smile in his eyes. The guards reluctantly said ok but they needed to keep the vino with them. LOL. Whatever. Grabbed my bag, the wine, ran back up to the check in desk and re-checked the bag.
Presto. Hopped on my plane and headed back to London.
Only in Italy would everone understand the importance of a bottle of wine.
Now - If only I drank.

--
Sent from my iPhone.

Epic!

I just spent the most glorious day in the most glorious place. It was Epic. I dont think I can describe just how Epic today was. Words fail. But I've come out of it feeling changed.

I went to Rome. Yesterday I arrived at my hostel in the outskirts of Rome (Ostia), but today Amy and I went into Rome proper. We took a bus to the main train station in Ostia, then a train to the end of the line to statzione Piramide (pyramid, which happens to be right next to - you guessed it - an ancient pyramid!) Snapped a few photos, ogled over the amazing ruins right next to it and then began our hike into La Cita Eterna. It was really just a few blocks up, but it felt like forever, after all we were completely excited to arrive and the walk was just in the way of getting there... but I digress.

After a few blocks we finally caught our first glimpse of The Colosseum. WOW. That word is a complete understatement. It was a dream fulfilled. I felt like a giddy school girl. I did a happy dance and giggled. Yes, me.

First view of the Colosseum

We kept walking and came upon the Forum, and so decided to veer around and get to the Collosseum via the Forum. Well, we happened to take the LOOOONNNG way around. Seriously. We completely walked the perimeter, which is fenced in with a high wall and a long drop. But in the end, it was the best mistake we could have made. The city, the ruins seemed to gently unfold before our eyes. Ruin after ruin through the high-wall. We stopped and took picture after picture, each view getting better and better.

!

A gorgeous little church along the back wall of the Forum

This adorable Italian woman came out of the church and filled her cup from the fontana (fountain, obviously! :)

Two hilarious old men having an animated discussion outside of the church!

At the top of one particular hill, we ran into (truly) an older Roman gentleman. He was an absolute dear! I spoke what little Italian I knew to him and he was just floored that I was trying. We talked about our hometowns and then he gave Amy and I directions to a che buono ristorante for lunch. Che bella, buono cibo e non expensive (beautiful, great food and inexpensive) It was an adorable encounter.

Our lunch director - Grazie!

Eventually we finally came out at the Piazza del Campidoglio. It was completely overwhelmind. I teared up. I didnt know which way to look, every turn of my head, every tilt and gawk brought a new treasure trove of eye-candy. It was a lush layering of history.