Monday, October 10, 2011

Ephesus

Ephesus is supposedly the world's best preserved ancient city.

But then again, that's what the Jordanians say about Jerash, and I would add Petra into the mix of contenders as well. I'm not quite sure what quantitative data is being used to calculate that claim, so maybe it's accurate on some level.

Despite my doubts about the "best preserved" claim, Ephesus is a gorgeous site. Parts of it's bits have been re-pieced and restored, but most of it is still rubble yet to be unearthed. The scale of the city is massive. In ancient days it stretched from it's present site to current Kusadasi. (11 miles away by car.)


If I may add my two-cents worth in here: I suggest NOT booking a packaged tour to see Ephesus. It's a waste of time. You get only a couple of hours at Ephesus and then they wheel you away to see the supposed house of Mary (after the death of Jesus), the Ephesus museum (bit dissappointing) and a column that was part of one of the seven wonders of the ancient world (the temple of Nike Athena). Except the bus literally pauses to the side of it because it's just a column. Then they actually make you go to a persian rug place and a leather factory and try and sell you rugs and leather jackets... UGH!

I'd recommend staying in the town next to Ephesus (Selcuk? pronounced Sell-chuck) and hiring a local guide when you're there at the "park."

For a less brutal day at Ephesus, start at the "end" and follow the walking route downhill instead of hiking uphill in the BRUTAL heat. Take LOTS of water. If you can, freeze a water bottle the night before and take a block of ice with you.

 Walking down to the Library.

The centerpiece of the site is the library and it's stunning. The sheer, ornate detailing in it is worth the trip alone.







There is also a 25,000 seat amphitheater used in Roman times for lion fights and other gory spectacle that is open and accessible for exploration. The acoustics are amazing! My small group of tourmates may have burst into song to hear the sound carry!



These days, Ephesus is a way off from the sea, but when the city was inhabited anciently it was the largest port city around. As in nearly on the ocean. The port was connected to the sea by a large river that eventually filled in with silt, cutting off access to the ocean by boat. Since then, the waterline has receded naturally around 40km. Crazy!

All in all my Ephesus experience was a bit of a mixed bag. The ancient city is really cool and I would have loved to have spent a full day there instead of being on the (stupid) tour I went on. (The tour was part of the two days/nights I spent in Kusadasi which I loathed!)

(PS: I'm back from my two-week blogging hiatus! What's new in your part of the world?)

2 comments:

  1. I learn so much from you!! :) PS Do you want to be my partner on the Amazing Race??

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  2. I love your travel information! Thanks!

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